Even extremely profitable vogue designers nonetheless have goals. Jean Paul Gaultier, the unique Parisian enfant horrible (and one-time Eurotrash presenter) was 9 years previous when he first had aspirations of displaying his bear, Nana, all dressed up in feathers, at Folies Bergère.
Some 5 odd a long time later and that dream lastly comes true because the designer launches his first vogue revue on the legendary Paris venue: a storytelling of his life titled “Trend Freak Present.”
It is a vibrant dance extravaganza that takes the viewer by means of the Gaultier early years in class — when his instructor tried to embarrass him for creativity over non-conformity — to his first forays into vogue, his debut catwalk present within the 1970s, the influential London punk scene, the 1990s dance and supermodel years, proper up till as we speak.
‘I nonetheless love vogue’
Gaultier, accountable amongst different issues for Madonna’s iconic cone corset silhouette, the enduring attraction of the Breton stripe, the sailor vogue trope that is aware of no bounds (even seen once more on the Paris Trend Week catwalks once more this week at Chloe in knotted wire), has had fairly the profession.
“I nonetheless love vogue, it’s my life, however I used to be at all times saying I’ll do a revue at some point and it’s that day,” stated the designer backstage earlier than the present’s premiere as dancers took to the stage to stretch it out. He recollects as baby: “I cherished it [Folies Bergère] a lot that I believe I wished to do one thing like that — the feathers, the glitter — so I took my teddy bear and put some feathers on him.”
Jean Paul Gaultier together with his teddy bear. Credit score: Laurent Seroussi
That very same bear makes for the topic of the opening quantity in a sequence of tinsel tributes, busting some strikes in stated conical corsetry — in a while there comes a London punk intercourse membership scene, an homage to the 1990s pattern for extra, botox and all, and a semi-nude finale celebrating magnificence in all of its pure kinds.
“I positively wished to be a couturier,” stated Gaultier, who imagined the whole spectacular as a visible tableaux, teaming up with Tonie Marshall as co-director and Nile Rogers on the music to deliver all of it to life.
“I believe really that vogue, some folks discover it frivolous and, sure, it’s and it is good that it’s frivolous however by means of vogue you are able to do quite a lot of issues, present quite a lot of issues, say quite a lot of issues, you possibly can faux, you possibly can specific your self, or you possibly can talk by means of vogue what’s taking place in society.”
All of which now appears particularly pertinent in as we speak’s socially and politically-charged panorama. “Should you’re the correct designer, it is since you assume, you [understand] what’s taking place in society and also you make propositions of how society goes. I did it instinctively as a result of I [understood] it.”
Among the many many Jean Paul Gaultier classics is the conical bra and corset, initially thought up by the designer when he did not have a doll to play with and so created a cone bra for his teddy bear as a substitute. Right here, one of many performers from the designer’s Trend Freak Present wears one. Credit score: ©TS3, Photograph: Boby
It is for all of those causes that the designer has discovered himself working with the likes of Madonna and Boy George over time, serving to them to have fun and outline their individually iconic stage presence.
“After all, to work with Madonna was fairly implausible, that I can not deny as a result of I used to be additionally a fan and he or she was sporting my garments. Madonna is unimaginable and on the similar time she was saying one thing I used to be saying concerning the energy of the lady, so I felt in some methods near her about that,” says Gaultier.
©TS3, Photograph: Boby
Churning out concepts
This is not the designer’s first foray into stage and display screen — Gaultier designed the costumes for the cult sci-fi movie “The Fifth Aspect,” was co-host of the irreverent tv present Eurotrash lengthy earlier than fellow designer Michael Kors took his mercurial activate tv as co-judge of Undertaking Runway. And he has been perpetually referenced by designers repeatedly, whether or not it’s by means of costume, assortment or the famend female and male types of his fragrance bottles.
Basically, in case you thought you had a brand new thought, assume once more: Gaultier has more than likely already overwhelmed you to it.
“I really feel proud and glad as a result of even when it is copying it is like a reconnaissance, what I used to be doing earlier than was extra underground however now it’s extra widespread so I’m very glad about that,” he acknowledges graciously.
Additionally charged with the title “enfant horrible”, the designer nonetheless is reluctant to put declare to that crown now however notes he’s nonetheless one in spirit. “I’m 66 so you possibly can’t say enfant horrible. Now I am extra calm and quiet.” Definitely, 5 hours earlier than the curtain name of his life (this can be a biography in any case), Gaultier was, as last lighting selections have been being made, final rehearsals wrapping up, sequins glowing and feathers a flutter backstage.
©TS3, Photograph: Boby
And 5 a long time later, Gaultier nonetheless very a lot has his finger on the heart beat, particularly given as we speak’s emphasis on equality. “As a result of I used to be surrounded by ladies I used to be very shocked once I began out in vogue to listen to for instance that ladies have been [seen as] an object — be stunning and shut up, even movies stated that.
For instance, issues that at all times shock me [are] once you see the person’s jacket fashion on a girl and also you see there isn’t a pocket right here [gestures to chest]. Why? The lads have. Why? As a result of males have the pockets so it means one thing — it means a girl is aware of she would not pay. I say sure ladies also can pay.”
Some would possibly say provocateur, others enfant horrible. Or you can merely name it modern-day considering.